I was browsing the book by Arturo Corpuz (The Colonial Iron Horse: Railroads and Regional Development in the Philippines 1875-1935, U.P. Press, 1999) and remembered there was a figure there that illustrated what looked like an ultimate plan for railways north of Manila. The map, shown below, indicated that what was the Main Line North (MLN) was already planned to be extended all the way to Laoag in Ilocos Norte from the existing station in Dagupan, Pangasinan.

PNR expansion plans in 1903

The map also shows proposed and alternate plans for a branch of the railways run along the Cagayan Valley and all the way to Aparri, Cagayan. The map along with others from that period reinforce what I have termed as probably one of the biggest “what ifs?” in Philippine transport. If such plans were implemented and we had retained and even upgraded these lines, perhaps inter-provincial or inter-regional passenger and freight flow in Luzon could have been significantly different from what we currently have that is dominated by road transport. A fully developed MLN and MLS could have been game changers in the development of Luzon and the country in general. Long distance travel for both people and goods may not have been dependent on road-based vehicles, and perhaps could have been more affordable for many people before the emergence of air transport and the present’s budget airlines. In fact, a fully developed railway system could give budget airlines and bus companies a run for their money today and perhaps influence tourist transport as well.

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Part of our recent field visit at the PNR included a tour of the depot where the maintenance and refurbishing works are undertaken. Among the cars we saw were those intended for train sets to serve the recently revived Bicol Express. The service to Bicol was recently re-started with a once-a-day trip to Naga City in Camarines Sur, which was eventually extended all the way to Ligao, Albay. The revival hopefully could be the start of something big – a renaissance – for the once famed Bicol Express. For older people, this could be a nostalgic service while for younger people it could be an adventure of sorts. Perhaps it would be a welcome alternative to air and road travel to the region given that the PNR ROW offers a better view along the way into Bicol including breathtaking Vistas of Mayon Volcano, the Pacific Ocean, Lamon Bay, Ragay Gulf and the Bicol countryside. Unfortunately, for now Bicol Express trains travel mainly at night from Manila and so the views will come up only after Naga City, which the train reaches at around 6:00 AM in the morning, and from there proceeds to Legazpi City for the next few hours.

Diesel-electric locomotive that pulls PNR trains – unlike those I rode in Japan, Philippine trains are no electrified and have to be pulled  by locomotives.

Technical tours – our hosts were very gracious and generous to provide us with a grand tour of the depot and the rolling stock. Such tours help our students to understand railway engineering “from the source.” Perhaps some students may be inspired to join a rail company.

Sleepers – not referring to the rail ties but to the sleeper cars of this train, which has the family cabins consisting of 4 beds (0n 2 double-deckers) each cabin.

Side view – the same diesel electric locomotive, which is actually a mobile power plant. Diesel is used as the fuel for the engine that produces electricity to power the locomotive.

Upper deck – the cabins have 2 double deck beds with the upper deck bed having straps to prevent passengers from falling. While much of the PNR’s tracks have been rehabilitated, they are said to be still far from providing the smooth ride of their Japanese counterparts.

Hallway – our students pose for photo along the corridor to illustrate the space in a sleeper car. There is a small seat that can be unfolded from the side wall across from each cabin door. Perhaps this is not really for use by the conductor but an extra seat for groups having a huddle or individuals wanting a seat to get a good view from the other side of the train. There’s are thick curtains that serve to provide privacy for each cabin. Each car is connected to each other so it is certain that passengers from other cars may be walking along these corridors.

Wash room – the sleeper cars are equipped with washrooms and toilets for the long ride, amenities not usually found in most long distance buses serving the same corridor.

Dirty toilets? – not really because this train has not yet been put into operation. The amenities like toilets and sinks are part of the refurbishing activities, we were told. Of course, this would have to be validated by actual passengers who would, by now, have taken the Bicol Express trains to/from Bicol during these Holy Week holidays.

Conductor’s cabin – each car has a cabin assigned for the conductor or whoever is assigned to assist passengers during their journeys.

Double-deckers – the photo affords a better view of the double deck beds in a family cabin. The handles on the vertical bar on the center when pulled apart will reveal steps for persons to climb to the upper deck beds. There are also curtains for persons to have privacy particularly while sleeping or when sharing the cabin with other people.

Driver’s console – the controls for the train give a hint on how old this unit is, noting that it has been retired in Japan. I remember looking at similar dials and levers during my first visit to Japan in 1996 when we usually stood behind the cockpit to see how the train is operated.

Recliners – inside the cars are reclining seats that seem to be as comfortable as business class seats on airliners. I tried one of the seats and the cushions are still quite firm for something that’s more than a decade old. I couldn’t smell any traces of tobacco so I guess these were already sanitized. Smoking cars are quite common in Japan and seats and entire cars can smell of smoke that tends to stick to the furniture and your clothes if you happen to be in one during a trip.

Rotation – the seat can be configured so that groups may face each other. Many seat two people kind of like love seats perfect for snuggling on long distance trips. There are also pull-out trays for eating, writing or working on your computer to update FB status or tweet about the experience.

Entertainment – Yes, that’s a television set at the far end of the cabin. I can imagine that like in buses, the PNR will be showing some movies during trips to help passengers wile away the time. We were informed that big groups could actually take a car for themselves so it is also possible to have activities like workshops in the train. Perhaps groups could even have karaoke if they had the entire car to themselves.

Reserved – the seat numbers remind ticket holders which seat they are to take and the characters remind us where the trains came from. That’s a hook (for hanging your coat or other belonging) in the lower center of the photo.

Toilets – the toilets are western-style with support bars for those requiring stability and a paper towel dispenser for the convenience of passengers.

Toilets for PWDs and others – this has larger space for people requiring space including persons with disabilities, senior citizens, pregnant women and those with babies or small children.

No reservations – in Japan “Non-reserved” means that seats on the car are first come, first served. One could purchase either such seats or the more expensive reserved seats from the train station.

Executive class – the double deck cars containing Executive Sleepers or individual cabins for the Bicol Express

Airconditioned – the Executive Sleepers have air-conditioning, which is a requirement for all services of the PNR that is part of the attraction for passengers. Some cars were fitted with generator sets to supplement the power provided by the locomotives. Note again that the PNR lines are not electrified so power required for lights, aircon and other equipment have to be provided by these generators.

Dining car – the Bicol Express trains include dining cars like this one also being refurbished by the PNR.

The Bar – the car included a bar where people could have drinks. This feature of the train elicited a lot of questions and some excitement among our students.

Dining tables – there’s ample space for diners though we were not able to ask who may actually be allowed to use the dining cars. There are 4-seater and 2-seater tables in the car.

4-seaters – a closer look at the dining tables show comfortable seats and a good view from the window. Unfortunately, the Bicol Express trains travel at night so there’s really not much to see while in transit.

Singles – passengers may also opt to eat at the bar, especially for the case of individuals who might end up hogging a table and depriving groups of space.

Executive sleeper – the cabin has a bed that doubles as a seat. Note the foldable arm rests and back cushion by the window. Also, there is space for a small bag located at a more secure part of the cabin.

Lights and aircon – each cabin is equipped with a desk, adjustable lights and individual air-conditioning control for the convenience of the occupant.

Window seat – each cabin has a window and generous space for the individual. The same features are found on the cabins on the upper deck but I guess the view is better upstairs so these would be the choice cabins for the Executive Sleepers.

I look forward to finally riding the Bicol Express, perhaps with family or friends, as I visit relatives in Bicol (my mother hails from Sorsogon). Though I can ride the train to Legazpi City, Albay, it is just a short trip by bus from that city to my mother’s hometown. Of course, there are other cities of interest for me including Naga City, my father-in-law’s hometown and Legazpi where there are many attractions around. My father has told me a lot about the Bicol Express, which he took with his sisters en route to Sorsogon to wed my mother. And so, part of the attraction to the train is sentimental in nature.

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We took our students to a field visit to the Philippine National Railways (PNR) station and depot in Tutuban in Manila. It was a good experience for all of us who joined the trip as the PNR is currently in the process of upgrading their services with the acquisition of refurbished rolling stock and the resumption of services to Bicol. We were quite curious as to the current state of the PNR after what has been a long period of neglect from a government that is supposed to promote safe, efficient and affordable mass transit not just for the urban setting but for long distance travel as well.

The PNR station and office building at Tutuban – the old station is actually where the Tutuban is now located. Access to the Tutuban Station is through a gate and the surrounding area is not suitable for a main or central station. There is no station plaza and as we will see in another photo, the space including the platform will not be suitable should operations expand in the next few years. In fact, passengers entering the station are processed as if they are entering an office building. This is partly true as the building serves as head office for the PNR.

Train schedule for the PNR commuter line – service frequency is still low with headways of 30 minutes (a train every half hour). With the number of passengers steadily increasing, the current capacity of trains has already been exceeded. The PNR should resolve issues pertaining to conflicts along its tracks and deploy more trains and/or more cars.

Fare table for the resurrected Bicol Express – family and executive sleepers were supposed to start operation last March 16. We were told that the PNR hosted representatives of travel/tourist agencies to an exclusive initial run of the sleeper and recliner cars to Bicol and back. This was part of the promotion of rail services to travelers especially as the summer months are approaching.

Replica of old PNR train car – there were many photos and other memorabilia on display at the Tutuban station. Unfortunately, the security people seem quite iffy about people taking photos. They had to be told by our host PNR officials that we were visitors from the State University. I found this to be very odd and a definite turn off for people interested in the trains. Rail needs to be promoted and PNR security is not helping in this aspect.

Passengers queued at the Tutuban Station – there were very few seats in the waiting area and passengers who want to board the next train emanating from Tutuban had to stand in line from the gate where PNR staff and security process passengers. A better system should be established here including the introduction of ticketing machines and turnstiles to better serve passengers. It won’t hurt also to have an electronic information system for train schedules and announcements.

Maintenance cars – when our hosts led us to the platforms, the first things that caught my eyes were the maintenance cars. These have allowed the PNR to provide better maintenance work on their tracks, no longer relying solely on manual labor for inspection and other works. Behind the equipment are cars familiar to me and my colleagues – Japan Railways (JR) retired these cars from the Saikyo Line that served areas along a route connecting Tokyo and Saitama Prefecture.

Nostalgic – these cars were the very same cars we used to ride along JR East’s Saikyo Line, which now runs between Omiya in Saitama Prefecture and Osaki in Tokyo via Ikebukuro and Shinjuku. It was usually my choice for going to Tokyo from Saitama University if I was heading to Shinjuku or Shibuya. From the university, I ook a bus to Minami Yono Station where I can also see Shinkansen trains passing through the station. The latter were also headed to Omiya where the Shinkansen lines branch out to Nagano, Tohoku and Akita. The cars shown in the photos are donations from Japan and the PNR only paid for its transport.

Old and new – old cars of the PNR may also be found at the Tutuban depot like this old passenger coach at one of the platforms. We were not able to ask if the PNR had plans to preserve these old cars. In other countries, there are railway museums like the one near Omiya Station in Japan. I’m sure the PNR would not lack for museum pieces including the old locomotives on display at its gates.

Sparkling – The interiors of the commuter trains reflect the service upgrade for the PNR. The trains are clean and spacious (appropriate for the capacities required for commuter service).

Try-outs – our students and my colleagues try out the seats as we were ferried from the Tutuban platform to the depot where our hosts gave us a technical tour of the rolling stock and other facilities.

Grilled reminder – PNR coaches have their windows fitted with grills like this on the PNR commuter trains. Despite efforts to clear its right-of-way of informal settlers, there are still many along its route and these have often vandalized trains. In many instances, garbage and other items are thrown at the trains. These incidents have been significantly reduces but the PNR continues to experience such, necessitating the installation of grills. The coaches from Japan will not be operated until they are fitted with the same grills. Hopefully, the PNR ROW will be clear of informal settlers as well as other sources of impedance.

Control panel – the lead car of the train features this more modern panel for the train controls. Note also the grills on the windshield of the train to mitigate the impacts of stones or other items thrown at the train as it rolls along its tracks near communities that include informal settlers.

Exit route – when our train reached the depot, we had to climb down from the train as there were no platforms in the area. For this, one had to climb down backwards and feel for the steps just below the doors.

Maintenance yard – one of the newer commuter trains from Korea undergoing maintenance work at the depot. The coaches on the right are also Japanese donations for refurbishing, and are fitted for long distance travel though not as comfortable as the recliners or sleeping cars. These are more for longer distance commutes like from Laguna to Manila, which are similar to commutes along the JR Tokaido Line.

Busy bees – with the resumption of Bicol Express services and the revitalized commuter line, the PNR’s maintenance staff have become more busy. There seems to be higher morale, too, as the long-neglected railway company gets a much needed proverbial “shot in the arm.”

Crash victim – one of the commuter trains was involved in a crash when a truck proceeded despite the warnings and the barriers indicating an approaching train. That effectively knocked out one train and will cost the PNR a lot to repair the train. There are still many issues pertaining to safety along rail crossings, and many motorists and pedestrians remain hardheaded (pasaway?). As the PNR increases its frequencies for both its commuter and provincial services the subject of safety will become more serious and one that needs much attention.

Briefing – colleagues ask our hosts about operations and other matters concerning the PNR today. Our students also had the opportunity to ask about employment possibilities at the PNR including what qualifications are needed for railwaymen.

From JR to PNR – those are more Japanese trains in the background. We were not really surprised about the conditions of the trains considering that JR does a great job maintaining their trains given their usage.

Recruitment pitch – our students had plenty of questions for our host including those about the trains and the history of the PNR. They were informed that the Polytechnic University of the Philippines (PUP) has a baccalaureate program in Railway Engineering and that our host taught courses there. When asked where the graduates go for employment, our host mentioned its difficult for them to get employment locally as railway engineers and that the program will soon terminated.

Noontime rush – back at Tutuban Station, we witnessed passengers alighting at the station and walking towards the exit. The number of passengers was significant considering the limited capacity of the trains and the fact that it was already noontime. There are probably more passengers during the morning and afternoon peak periods.

Driver’s seat – I took this photo when we boarded our train from Tutuban to Espana. Our hosts were very kind and generous to allow us to ride in the cockpit where all the action takes place. We also got a firsthand experience of what the driver had to go through (his hand was practically on the horn the whole time he was running the train) to earn a living.

All aboard! – the Espana Station platform after all passengers have boarded the train. One passenger seems to be talking to the security personnel at one of the doors. The DOTC and the PNR posts security staff on the trains to ensure safety and security on-board. Their presence is a deterrence against criminality including snatchers and con-men who prey on students and the inattentive.

Capacity – the train is filled with passengers, underlining the demand for more efficient public transport services in Metro Manila. This, despite the fact that trains have 30-minute headways. The PNR commuter line provides an inexpensive alternative to commuters.

Crossings – the junction at Espana Avenue in Manila is among the busiest given the road traffic along this major arterial. If the PNR will increase service frequencies (and therefore capacity), this will result in higher likelihoods for crashes involving trains. During our short ride from Tutuban to Espana, we already saw a lot of crossings along the railways that require much attention and safety devices.

Line diagram – like most trains, the PNR displays information on the stations along its commuter line. We visited their main station at Tutuban and rode a train from there to Espana. I can imagine that the stations listed in red would be express stations in the future but then conspicuously “blue” are Paco and Buendia Stations, which I believe should be major stops for the PNR.

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